Featured

Leveraging Software to Enhance Furniture Quality

02/12/2025

By leveraging innovative software and a commitment to refinement...

Continue reading
Leveraging Software to Enhance Furniture Quality
Featured

Highly Customizable Furniture

03/07/2025

At eastbaydiy, we take pride in offering highly customizable furniture.

Continue reading
Highly Customizable Furniture
Handcrafted Solid Wood Custom Furniture Just for You!

Don’t Panic About Those Dark Spots on Your Oak or Walnut Furniture

03/26/2025

Have you noticed small dark spots on your red oak or walnut furniture, especially after we applied a Rubio Monocoat Pre-Color? You might be worried that it’s mold or a defect in the wood. Good news: it’s neither! Those little black marks are actually a natural result of your wood’s own chemistry – something called tannin reacting in the wood. In this post, we’ll explain what tannins are, why these dark spots appear (they’re not mold), and why they’re actually a normal characteristic of real hardwood. We’ll also share how we minimize tannin spots and recommend a few products that can help reduce or remove them. By the end, you’ll feel confident that your furniture is high-quality and beautiful, tiny spots and all.

What Are Tannins in Wood?

Tannins are natural compounds found in many plants and trees – oak, cedar, some mahoganies and walnut happen to have a lot of them. (Fun fact: the word “tannin” comes from leather tanning, since these compounds were used to cure hides.) In trees, tannins serve as a sort of defense mechanism, helping protect against pests and rot​. They’re also responsible for rich colors in wood. Generally, lighter-colored woods like maple or birch have very low tannin content, while darker hardwoods like oak, walnut, mahogany, and cherry are rich in tannic acid​. So your oak coffee table or walnut dresser is full of natural tannins – that’s part of what gives these woods their beautiful character. If tannins really bothers you, you should avoid choosing oak or walnut furniture.

Tannins in Wood Examples

Tannins in Wood Examples

Now, tannins themselves aren’t visible – they’re just inside the wood but when certain things come into contact with tannins, they can react and produce visible color. If you’ve ever brewed a cup of tea and noticed the brown color, that’s from tannins (tea leaves are high in tannin too!). In wood, tannins can react during finishing or use, which leads to the dark spots we’re discussing.

Why Do Dark Tannin Spots Appear?

Those blackish spots are basically a chemical reaction happening in the wood, often triggered by moisture and metals. Here’s how it works in simple terms:

  • Water or finish can draw tannins to the surface. When wood gets wet – even with a water-based stain or finish – the moisture can bring the tannic acids up to the wood surface​. Rubio Monocoat Pre-Color, for example, is a water-based pre-stain, so it may lift some tannins as it soaks the wood. This is normal for high-tannin woods like red oak.

  • Tannins + Iron = Dark Spots. If those raised tannins come into contact with iron or steel, a reaction occurs that creates a dark bluish-black discoloration (basically an iron-tannin compound). It’s the same reaction used to intentionally “ebonize” oak wood black using steel wool and vinegar! Even tiny traces of iron can trigger it​. For instance, using ordinary tap water (which might have minerals), or microscopic steel dust from cutting tools, or even a metal container touching wet oak can introduce enough iron. Oak is especially sensitive – “oak reacts strongly to iron because of the immense amount of tannins in the wood,” as one wood expert notes​. Walnut has tannins too (though a bit less than oak), so it can also get spots, but oak is notoriously reactive.

  • Certain finishes or cleaners can cause it. Rubio’s Pre-Color or other water-based products don’t contain iron, but water alone can cause tannin movement. Also, if an alkaline product (basic pH) touches tannins, it can turn them brown or gray​. Sometimes people unknowingly cause a reaction by using an ammonia-based cleaner or something high pH on oak – that can create greenish-brown tannin spots. But most often, it’s the moisture + metal combo that makes the little black dots.

So, essentially tannic acid in the wood + iron + moisture = dark stain. It might look mysterious, but it’s actually a well-known chemistry. For example, if you leave a wet can or an iron nail on oak, you’ll get a black ring or spot there – it’s called an iron stain. The “mysterious” spots after staining are the same idea, just on a smaller scale. The Rubio Pre-Color (being water-based) likely drew out tannins, and any contact with metal particles or even the steel wool used in prepping (if any was used) can produce those little black freckles.

Dark rings or spots can form when oak or walnut wood comes into contact with moisture and metal, due to the wood’s natural tannic acid reacting with iron​. In this example, a wet metal object left on an oak table caused a black ring – a classic tannin reaction, not mold.

It’s Not Mold – Just Mother Nature at Work

Let’s address the elephant in the room: No, these spots are not mold. We understand why someone might think that – the spots are dark and appear after some time, which can resemble mildew stains. But mold on furniture usually has a fuzzy or powdery texture or grows in circular patches. These tannin spots, by contrast, are literally in the wood (not raised on top) and often occur where something contacted the wood (like a bit of metal or water spill).

In fact, wood flooring professionals frequently encounter panicked homeowners who think they have moldy floors, when it’s really tannin staining. As one expert humorously shared, “I get so many calls about ‘mold in my floor’ that I keep repeating my sermon: it’s not mold!”​. Our situation is the same – the black dots on your oak/walnut furniture are a natural chemical stain, not a fungal growth. They won’t spread or “infect” anything.

One easy way to tell: if you try to lighten the spots with a wood bleach like oxalic acid (more on that later) and they fade, then it’s definitely an iron-tannin reaction, not mold. Mold wouldn’t bleach out so easily, but iron-tannin black stains do lighten with the right treatment​​. So rest assured, there’s nothing “growing” in your furniture – it’s simply the wood’s natural tannins showing their presence.

Natural Wood = Natural Character (Not Defects!)

It’s important to remember that when you choose real solid hardwood, you’re choosing a material that has unique character. Unlike manufactured materials (like laminate or engineered wood), which are made to look uniform, genuine wood will have variations in color and grain. Tannin spots are one of those natural variations. They’re like the wood’s birthmarks – part of its personality.

Far from being considered “defects,” features like small knots, mineral streaks, and yes, occasional tannin discoloration are generally allowed in quality standards for hardwood. They show that the piece is authentic and one-of-a-kind. For example, walnut often has little dark streaks or “sap lines” and oak can have what’s called “mineral stain” from elements it absorbed while the tree grew. These are celebrated by woodworkers and furniture makers because they give life to the wood. No two boards are ever exactly alike.

So when you see a couple of dark speckles on your oak table, you can take pride in knowing it’s real oak – the wood is interacting with its environment just as it did when it was part of a tree. Many antique oak furniture pieces have similar blackened areas from where iron hardware contacted them over decades; it gives them a distinguished, antique look. In our case, the spots are smaller, but they are a subtle reminder that your furniture is made of true hardwood with real character. We do not view them as flaws, and we hope you’ll come to view them as a charming aspect of your piece’s natural beauty.

Can We Prevent or Remove These Spots?

We want to be upfront: tannin reactions are a natural phenomenon, so they can be mitigated but not 100% eliminated. Our goal is to minimize any noticeable spots while preserving the integrity of the wood. Here’s how we handle it and what you can expect:

  • Smart Pre-Finishing Steps: We take extra care during the finishing process to reduce tannin spotting. For instance, we make sure to remove all sanding dust and avoid any contact between raw wood and iron tools or steel wool (steel bits can trigger stains)​. We might even “water-pop” the wood with distilled water before final finishing – this raises the grain and brings tannins out in a controlled way.

  • Tannin-Blocking Primers: We also have special products available to neutralize tannins before they react. One example is Rubio Monocoat Tannin Primer, which is a preventive treatment designed for high-tannin woods like oak​. It’s not a sealer (it doesn’t stop the oil from penetrating), but it prevents or delays tannin marks from surfacing​.

  • Setting Realistic Expectations: Even with all precautions, you might still find a few faint spots here or there. For example, if there’s an area in the wood with exceptionally high tannin concentrated, it could slightly darken when the finish cures or if the wood gets damp. We believe in honesty, so we let our clients know that completely avoiding any tannin reaction is nearly impossible with real oak/walnut. The wood is organic and will do what nature built it to do. That said, any spots that do appear are usually small and subdued – often only noticeable if you’re looking closely. They typically blend into the rustic charm of the grain. Remember, these are not structural or continuing problems; they won’t spread or worsen. And if a spot truly bothers you, it can be treated(reduced) by Rubio Monocoat Tannin Remover.

  • Aftercare to Avoid Future Spots: To keep your furniture looking its best, a few tips: use coasters or pads under metal vases or planters (so iron doesn’t sit directly on the wood with moisture), and wipe up spills promptly – especially if the liquid might contain iron or is alkaline. Everyday water spills are generally fine if wiped, but you just don’t want water sitting for long periods. The finish we applied (Rubio Monocoat oil) protects the wood, but it’s still good to be mindful. Also, when cleaning, use a pH-neutral wood cleaner or the manufacturer’s recommended soap. Avoid ammonia-based cleaners on the raw wood or acidic solutions, since those can trigger tannin reactions as mentioned. Following these simple practices will greatly reduce new spots. And if you do get a surprise ring or speckle, you know it can be remedied.

Embracing the Beauty of Real Hardwood

At the end of the day, those small dark spots are a reminder that your furniture is made of genuine, natural wood – a material with a life and story of its own. Rather than viewing tannin marks as blemishes, we encourage our clients to see them the way we do: as a badge of authenticity. They are usually subtle and will likely blend into the patina of your furniture over time, especially as the piece ages gracefully.

Think of it like the freckles on a person’s skin – a few tiny marks that add uniqueness and charm. Your oak or walnut piece isn’t factory-perfect plastic; it’s real wood that has grown in nature, with all the wonderful quirks that come with it. Every board has seen sun and rain, absorbed minerals from the soil, and developed its own character. The fact that it can occasionally react and show a dark spot is part of that character. It’s even possible that, in the future, you’ll come to appreciate these little spots, knowing what they signify.

Most importantly, remember that these tannin spots do not compromise the quality or durability of your furniture in any way. Oak and walnut are hardwoods known for their strength – a few darkened areas don’t change that. We would never deliver a piece of furniture that was actually moldy or defective; what you’re seeing is purely cosmetic and natural. Our goal is always to educate and reassure you, so you feel confident and happy with your investment in real wood furniture.

In Summary:

  • Tannins are natural compounds in oak and walnut that can cause small dark spots when they react with moisture/metal – it’s a normal chemical reaction in wood, not mold or a flaw.

  • These spots are a natural characteristic of genuine hardwood. Wood isn’t uniform, and features like this add to its unique beauty. They’re typically minor and not considered defects.

  • We take steps to minimize tannin staining, like special primers and careful finishing practices, but it can’t be entirely prevented due to wood’s organic nature.

  • If a black spot does appear, there are treatments to reduce or remove it (e.g. Rubio Tannin Remover or oxalic acid wood bleach). So, any stubborn mark can be lightened if needed – but often it’s so small you may choose to embrace it.

  • Care tips: Use coasters under metal objects and wipe spills promptly to avoid giving tannins a chance to react. Basic care will keep your furniture looking its best.

We hope this explanation puts your mind at ease. Those little dark spots are actually a sign that you have an authentic piece of oak or walnut furniture, with all the richness and character that entails. In a world of synthetic materials, your furniture stands out as a piece of nature in your home – quirks included! Enjoy the warmth, beauty, and uniqueness of your hardwood furniture, and know that we’re always here to answer any questions about its care.

Thank you for choosing real wood and for trusting us with your furniture. Every knot, grain line, and yes, tannin spot, is part of what makes your piece special. We’re confident it will serve you well and be admired for many years to come. Enjoy your beautiful furniture, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you ever need guidance on maintenance or have concerns – we’re here to help!

Continue reading


Highly Customizable Furniture

03/10/2025

At eastbaydiy, we take pride in offering highly customizable furniture. Most of our pieces come with the following customization options:

  • A variety of popular hardwood species (from light color to dark color)

  • Custom dimensions

  • Different styles of legs

  • A versatile floating version

  • Dovetail joinery drawers

  • Hardwood lumber with plywood or all hardwood carcass

  • All round corners carcass

  • Classic straight angel corners

And more that are coming soon!

Examples of different customization options

Japanese Style Nightstands - Custom Size Available!

From 12in(body only) height to 20in, you can custom different dimensions to fit you needs!

Japanese Style Nightstand - Floating Configuration

This is the floating version. It can also be converted to have legs.

Japanese Style Nighstands - Square Legs

This legs are 6in tall which is a little less than the cylinder ones(8in).

Japanese Style Walnut Boy Dresser -  Front

Walnut lumber + walnut plywood

Giant Cherry Wood Japanese Style Boy Dresser /w 5-drawer - Landscape

This is a giant cherry hardwood boy dresser at 36”W x 18”D x 55”H. It's a perfect piece for your bedroom.

Dovetail Drawers

We offer dovetail drawer option for all our custom furniture. See FAQs for details of the costs.

Japanese Style Cherry Hallway Table

Japanese Style Cherry Hallway Table

Japanese Style Desktop Monitor Riser - Landscape

This cherry + walnut is a perfect match to this cherry table too!

Straight Corner Cherry 6-drawer Dresser 60W x 30H x 20D

This is a new variation based on our Japanese style 6-drawer dresser. Straight corner and cushion pads bottom with top shallower drawers.

Japanese Style Cabinet /w 2-Door

This is the limited edition - rattan cane webbing doors and all rounded corners.

Japanese-style Mahogany nightstand set - Front View

Japanese-style Mahogany nightstand set - Front View

Japanese Style Nightstand Cherry /2-drawer and FletPad

Round corner vs straight - Which one would you prefer? 20W x 26H x 16D, 5in H drawer face

Have some questions? See our FAQs for more details.

Continue reading


Start from scratch

03/10/2025

If you're new to woodworking, here are some valuable tips to help you get started on your journey:

  1. Learn by Doing: Rather than focusing solely on practicing individual techniques, strive to complete full projects. For example, if you want to learn how to cut a board, incorporate that skill into a small furniture project. This hands-on approach not only reinforces your skills but also provides a sense of accomplishment as you see your project come together.

  2. Start Small: Begin with projects that you can realistically complete within a weekend. Avoid taking on ambitious projects that require a significant time investment, as this can lead to frustration and boredom. Starting small allows you to gain confidence and gradually tackle more complex projects as your skills improve.

  3. Invest Wisely in Tools: When starting out, it's tempting to splurge on a wide array of tools. However, focus on acquiring the essential tools needed to get started. As you gain experience and identify specific needs, you can gradually expand your tool collection. Here are some basic tools to consider:

    • A quality handsaw or circular saw for cutting wood

    • A power drill with drill bits for making holes

    • A hammer and nails for basic assembly

    • A combination square for precise measurements

    • Sandpaper or a power sander for smoothing surfaces

    • Clamps to hold pieces together during assembly

By following these tips and gradually building your skills and tool collection, you'll be well on your way to becoming a proficient woodworker. Remember to enjoy the process and embrace the learning journey!

Tools I used to get started

Good luck!

Continue reading


eastbaydiy - Your Local Fine Woodworker

03/09/2025

Crafting High-End, Custom Furniture—Just for You

If you're looking for furniture that's beyond standard, builder-grade quality, you've come to the right place. At eastbaydiy, we specialize in handcrafted, high-end wooden furniture that’s custom-made to fit your exact needs. Unlike mass-produced pieces, our furniture is designed to last a lifetime, using only the finest materials and expert craftsmanship.

Why Choose eastbaydiy?

1. Uncompromising Material Quality

Most furniture today is built from MDF, particle board, or low-cost engineered wood. We take a different approach—every piece we create is made from premium solid wood and hardwood plywood, finished with 0% VOC finishes for a safer, more natural look and feel. This ensures superior durability, beauty, and long-term value. If you were to find a comparable product from a well-known brand, you’d likely pay 3-5 times more.

2. Built Around You: Full Customization

Unlike off-the-shelf furniture, every piece we build is designed specifically for you. Whether you need a table with exact dimensions, a unique combination of wood species, or custom legs and finishes, we make sure it fits your space and style perfectly.

3. Convenience Without Compromise

We make customization easy. Our online design tool allows you to configure your furniture effortlessly, anytime and anywhere. This level of personalization at our price point is rare in the industry, giving you a seamless and enjoyable experience without the hassle of mass-market limitations.

Invest in Quality That Lasts

The higher cost of our handcrafted furniture isn’t just about price—it reflects the quality, craftsmanship, customization, and convenience we bring to every piece. Whether you're upgrading a space or investing in a one-of-a-kind heirloom, eastbaydiy is here to craft something better, stronger, and uniquely yours.

Ready to build something exceptional? Let’s bring your vision to life.

Continue reading


Choosing the Perfect Hardwood for Japanese-Style Furniture in the Bay Area

03/02/2025

Imagine a sunlit Bay Area living room, minimalist and serene. A low wooden coffee table with a subtle grain sits at the center, its warm tones inviting you to touch and admire. The space feels calm yet cozy – a hallmark of Japanese-style modern interiors. As a mid-career professional or busy homemaker in the Bay Area, you appreciate this blend of simplicity and natural beauty. But when it comes to actually choosing the right hardwood for that high-end Japanese-inspired furniture or built-in, where do you start?

In this friendly guide, we'll wander through the forest of options – from quarter-sawn white oak to rich walnut – and demystify terms like Janka hardness and rift-sawn grain. By the end, you’ll feel like you’re chatting with a savvy friend over coffee, ready to pick the perfect wood for your dream piece.

The Allure of Japanese-Style Modern Furniture

Japanese-style modern (and its cousin “Japandi” – Japanese + Scandinavian) design emphasizes simplicity, craftsmanship, and a deep connection to nature. One key aspect is the use of natural materials like wood, stone, and bamboo, which bring warmth and authenticity to minimalist spaces. Think of low-profile tables, platform beds, or built-in cabinets with clean lines and visible wood grain. Every board tells a story. The right wood choice can make a piece sleek and modern while still warm and inviting.

Japanese Style Cultue Illustration

Japanese Style Cultue Illustration

In Japanese culture, wood has long been cherished – from cedar soaking tubs to delicate shoji screens. Marrying that with Bay Area sensibilities (tech-forward and eco-conscious) means we seek sustainability and longevity in our furniture. A solid hardwood piece, crafted with care, isn’t just furniture – it’s an investment and maybe a future heirloom. Now, let’s meet some star hardwoods and see how their characteristics align with this aesthetic.

Meet the Hardwood All-Stars for High-End Furniture

Every wood species has its own personality – color, grain, hardness, even scent. Below are key players best suited for Japanese-style or Japandi interiors. These woods are premium, durable, and beautiful, each in its own way. Whether you’re drawn to light, airy vibes or rich, dark tones, there’s a wood for you.

Quarter-Sawn White Oak: The Elegant Zen Master

If woods were characters, quarter-sawn white oak would be the wise artisan – calm, strong, and full of subtle beauty. White oak is known for its superb durability and tight, straight grain. When it’s quarter-sawn, this oak reveals magical “ray fleck” patterns – a shimmering figure like tiny tiger stripes hidden in the grain. These flecks give quarter-sawn oak a unique texture that translates to a refined, linear look. The color of white oak ranges from pale grayish-tan to light brown, sometimes with a hint of olive in a natural finish. It takes stains well, but many Bay Area homeowners now love it in a natural matte finish to appreciate its organic look.

CUTTING PATTERN: HOW A SAWYER SEES A LOG

GRAIN PATTERN: HOW A BUILDER SEES A LOG

Why it fits Japanese-style: White oak’s straight grain and subtle patterns exude a quiet elegance. It’s strong and stable – quarter-sawn boards resist warping and cupping over time – ideal for the clean lines of low benches or long shelves. Oak has been a common choice in Japanese and Japandi furniture because of its strength and natural beauty. Picture a built-in oak media console with sliding panels, the grain providing visual interest without overpowering the room. It’s a classic that balances zen-like restraint with hearty durability.

Red Oak: The Familiar Workhorse with a Warm Hue

Red oak might be White Oak’s more outgoing cousin – slightly less hard, with a prominent grain and a friendly, reddish tone. Red oak is plentiful in North America and often used in flooring and furniture. Its grain is typically open and bold, with “cathedral” arch patterns in plain-sawn boards and a coarse texture. The wood’s color tends to be a light tan with pinkish or red undertones that deepen with certain finishes.

Why it fits Japanese-style: In many high-end modern designs, red oak takes a backseat to white oak simply because designers lately prefer the whiter, less busy look of white oak. However, red oak can absolutely work in a Japanese-inspired interior, especially if you plan to use a stain. Its grain can add a bit more visual texture, which can be an intentional choice if the rest of your décor is very minimal.

Mahogany: The Luxurious Classic

Mahogany has a long history in fine furniture for good reason. Revered for its rich reddish-brown color and fine, even grain, mahogany is somewhat softer than oak or maple but very stable and carvable. The grain of mahogany can be straight but often shows lovely ribboning or interlocking patterns that catch the light. Over time, mahogany deepens to a warm, reddish hue that just says “quality.”

Why it fits Japanese-style: Mahogany’s deep color offers a beautiful contrast in a light, minimalist space. The key is to use mahogany sparingly as an accent in modern Japanese interiors, so it doesn’t overpower the calm vibe. A mahogany countertop on a built-in credenza could add warmth and a touch of formal elegance to an otherwise simple design.

Maple: The Light and Versatile Beauty

Hard maple is pale, creamy in color with a fine, uniform texture. It’s very hard and has a tight grain that can sometimes show fun figure like bird’s-eye or curl, though often it’s straight and subtle. Maple’s hardness means it resists dents, making it great for furniture that sees a lot of use.

Why it fits Japanese-style: In Japanese interiors, lighter woods are very popular for creating that zen, airy atmosphere. Maple fits the bill perfectly with its soft white to light tan color. Use it for a dining table or custom cabinets if you crave a bright, modern look.

Walnut: The Sophisticated Statement

Walnut often steals hearts in the showroom. American black walnut is a darling of modern high-end furniture, admired for its deep chocolate-brown hue and elegant grain. The heartwood can range from light brown to a rich dark brown, often with a purplish or chocolate hue. Walnut’s grain is usually calm, with occasional curls that are considered beautiful, not chaotic.

Why it fits Japanese-style: Walnut’s dark tone brings contrast and drama to a minimalist space. It embodies a kind of understated luxury. Even a small walnut accent, like the legs on a sofa or a lamp made from walnut, adds richness. Despite its bold color, walnut’s grain is usually calm enough to not feel “busy.”

Other Premium Hardwoods to Consider

Beyond the “big five” above, there are a few other all-star hardwoods you might encounter, especially in custom furniture:

  • Cherry: A favorite in fine furniture, cherry wood starts as a pinkish-brown and darkens to a richer reddish brown over time. It has a smooth, satiny grain and a 950 Janka hardness​(similar to soft maple). Cherry is great for a softer, warm look – perhaps a low Japanese-style platform bed in cherry, which will glow as it ages. It’s a nice mid-point between the pale maples and dark walnuts, color-wise. And like in a good story, cherry changes with time (developing a lovely patina in sunlight).

  • Teak: Originally used in mid-century Danish and also traditional Japanese outdoor furniture, teak is famous for its golden brown tone and oily, rot-resistant nature. It’s about as hard as walnut (around 1000 Janka) but extremely durable in wet conditions. Teak can be quite expensive, but for a Zen garden bench or a bathroom accent, it brings an authentic spa-like vibe. Its color will lighten to a driftwood gray if left unfinished outdoors, but indoors it stays a beautiful honey brown. (Fun fact: teak was listed as a common wood in Japandi style too.)

  • Cedar & Cypress: These are softer woods (not as hard on the Janka scale) but used traditionally in Japan (e.g. hinoki cypress baths). They have wonderful fragrance and resist decay. For built-ins, they might be too soft, but for accent pieces or closet linings, they add a heavenly scent of nature. In a Japandi context, you might see cedar in rustic stools or side tables, valued more for the connection to nature than for hardness.

  • Ash: Similar in appearance to oak, ash has a light beige color and bold grain. It’s quite hard (~1320 Janka, close to white oak) and has been used in many modern furniture pieces. Ash could be a good alternative if you like oak’s properties but want a slightly different look (ash grain tends to be straighter, with less ray fleck). It takes dye well, so sometimes ash is ebonized (stained black) for a Japanese lacquer look, while still showing wood texture.

Bringing It All Together: Crafting Your Dream Piece

We’ve journeyed through forests of oak, walnut groves, and maple stands – now it’s time to bring this knowledge home. How do you make a decision and ensure it fits your Japanese-inspired, high-end interior?

First, reconnect with your vision. Close your eyes and picture your space with that new furniture or built-in. Is it light and zen, or does it have a bold focal point? Do you see delicate straight grains, or maybe a darker accent that grounds the room? Your emotional response can guide you.

Ultimately, choosing a wood is a personal decision, a blend of head and heart. Whether you opt for the elegance of quarter-sawn white oak, the warmth of mahogany, or the rich sophistication of walnut, your furniture will be a true reflection of your style and values. Happy decorating, and may your home be filled with the beauty of wood and the spirit of craftsmanship!

Start designing your very own Japanese-Style piece right now!

(Collaborated with Wood Wise AI)

Continue reading

About

eastbaydiy crafts high-quality, custom fine furniture just for you! Specializing in solid hardwood and Japanese-style designs, we create bespoke dressers, bedside tables, cabinets, and more. Serving the Bay Area, including Oakland, San Jose, and San Francisco and beyond. Get a locally handcrafted piece made just for you!